Kawasaki GPZ500S Specs and Information (1987 to 2004 – aka Kawasaki EX500)

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GPZ500S specs

1998 Kawasaki GPZ500 S (‘R’ reg – D5 model)

Kawasaki GPZ500S Specs…..

The Kawasaki GPZ500S was a bikini faired, 498cc sports motorcycle produced by Kawasaki in the UK between 1987 and 2004.
Confusingly, the bike was called the ‘GPZ500S’ in Europe and the UK, the ‘EX500’ in the US and other areas for a while then the name outside Europe was changed to the ‘Ninja 500’ in the mid 1990’s and the Ninja 500R in the late 1990’s).

The GPZ 500 S was a popular mid range sports bike with good reliability, decent handling and a good engine that loved to be revved. The bike was marketed to the ‘biking on a budget’ crowd, and although this showed in some areas (like brakes and shocks), it was generally cheap to run, maintain and insure making it very popular with commuters, 1st time ‘big’ bikers and couriers.
Although probably a bit ‘long in the tooth’ by today’s standards, it’s still a popular bike and things like the fairing and engine still make it fun to ride for commuting or a weekend blast.

Need parts for your GPZ500S? Kawasaki GPZ500 parts on Amazon…

A little bit about the Kawasaki GPZ 500…..

Basic model info…

Manufacturer: Kawasaki
Model: GPZ500S
Model code: EX500
Also known as: EX500, Ninja 500 and Ninja 500R
CC: 498cc
Engine type: Parallel-twin (4 stroke)
Years in production: 1987 to 2004
Style of bike: Sports bike
Insurance: Group 8 (of 17) – Insurance up for renewal? Try Confused.com

Servicing your bike? You’ll need a GPZ500S workshop manual…

Models and years (in the UK)

Note: The bike is referred to as the ‘EX500’ in the info below, but the ‘EX500’ and ‘GPZ500S’ are the same bike (EX500 was the model code Kawasaki used for the GPZ500S).

EX500 A1 (Jan 1987 to April 1988)…..
Frame number started: EX500A-000001-
Description: Middle weight sports bike with an 8 valve, water cooled parallel twin cylinder engine producing around 59 bhp. The GPZ500S also featured box section frame, lightweight 16 inch cast wheels, side and center stand, single disc front brake, drum rear brake, 2 into 2 exhaust with alloy wrapped end cans and a half fairing and belly pan.
Available colours: Ebony or red
Price (new):
EX500 A2 (May 1988 to Dec 1989)…..
Frame number started: EX500A-010001-
Description: Same as above model with new graphics (‘twin cam 8 valve’ logo on the sides of the fairing) and a new ‘limited edition’ colour added to the range.
Available colours: Ebony, red or ‘limited edition’ green/white
Price (new):
EX500 A3 (Jan 1989 to Aug 1990)…..
Frame number started: EX500A-020501-
Description: Same as above model but with ‘500S’ logo on the belly pan.
Available colours: Red/white or white/grey
Price (new):
EX500 A4 (Sept 1990 to Dec 1990)…..
Frame number started: EX500A-033001-
Description: Same as above model.
Available colours: Blue/white or red/white
Price (new): £2949
EX500 A5 (Jan 1991 to Dec 1991)…..
Frame number started: EX500A-060001-
Description: Same as above model.
Available colours: Ebony/grey or red/white
Price (new): £3370
EX500 A6 (Jan 1992 to Jan 1994)…..
Frame number started:
Description: Same as above model with new graphics and no longer has the ‘twin cam 8 valve’ logo on the side of the fairings.
Available colours: Ebony/grey or blue/white
Price (new): £3499 for a ‘J’ reg
£3425 for a 1992 ‘K’ reg
£3365 for a 1993 ‘K’ reg
£3495 for a 1993 ‘L’ reg
EX500 D1 (Feb 1994 to Dec 1994)…..
Frame number started: EX500D-000001-
Description: Now has rear disc brake, new, larger 37mm forks, 17 inch front and rear wheels, new bodywork and lower seat height.
Available colours: Black or wine red
Price (new): £3995
EX500 D2 (Jan 1995 to Dec 1995)…..
Frame number started: EX500D-009001-
Description: Same as above model with new graphics.
Available colours: Red or blue
Price (new): £4095 for an ‘M’ reg
£4195 for an ‘N’ reg
EX500 D3 (Jan 1996 to Dec 1996)…..
Frame number started:
Description: Same as above model.
Available colours: Red/grey or ebony/grey
Price (new): £4395
EX500 D4 (Jan 1997 to Dec 1997)…..
Frame number started:
Description: Same as above model.
Available colours: Black or red
Price (new): £4395
EX500 D5 (Jan 1998 to Oct 1998)…..
Frame number started: EX500D-040001-
Description: Same as above model.
Available colours: Same as above model.
Price (new): £4395
EX500 D6 (Nov 1998 to Dec 1999)…..
Frame number started: JKAEX500DDA048001-
Description: Same as above model.
Available colours: Black pearl or candy red
Price (new): £3450 for an ‘S’ reg
£3450 for a ‘T’ reg
£3550 for a ‘V’ reg
EX500 D7 (Jan 2000 to Oct 2001)…..
Frame number started: JKAEX500DDA055001-
Description: Same as above model.
Available colours: Blue or ebony
Price (new): £3750 for a ‘V’ reg
£3750 for a ‘W’ reg
£3750 for a 2000 ‘X’ reg
£3795 for a 2001 ‘X’ reg
£3795 for a ‘Y’ reg
£3795 for a ’51’ reg
EX500 E9 (Nov 2001 to Oct 2002)…..
Frame number started:
Description: Same as above model.
Available colours:
Price (new): £3750
EX500 E10 (Nov 2002 to Oct 2003)…..
Frame number started:
Description: Same as above model.
Available colours:
Price (new): £3795
EX500 E11 (Nov 2003 to Oct 2004)…..
Frame number started:
Description: Same as above model.
Available colours:
Price (new): £4145
EX500 E12 (Nov 2004 – Discontinued)…..
Frame number started:
Description: Same as above model.
Available colours:
Price (new): £4145
EX500 specs

GPZ500S in blue and white

GPZ500S D6

1999 GPZ500S D6 model in candy red

Engine and gearbox specs…..

Displacement: 498 cc
Engine type: Parallel-twin

Note: A parallel twin engine is slightly different to an inline twin engine. In very simple terms, they both have two cylinders placed side by side, but with a parallel twin both the pistons go up and down together (known as a 360 degree crankshaft angle, so they are at the top or bottom of the cylinder together), an inline twin has opposite pistons, so when 1 is at the top of the cylinder the other is at the bottom (known as a 180 degree crankshaft angle).

Stroke: 4 stroke
Bore×Stroke: 74x58mm
No. of cylinders: 2
Cam shaft configuration: DOHC (double overhead cam)
Compression ratio: 10.8:1
Cylinder compression pressure (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 8.8 to 13.5 bar (128 to 196 psi)
Cylinder compression pressure (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 9.0 to 13.8 bar (131 to 200 psi)
Valves: 8 valve (4 per cylinder)
Spark plug (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): NGK DR8ES (x2)
Spark plug (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): NGK DR9EA (x2)
Spark plug gap: 0.6 to 0.7mm
Spark plug torque: 14nm
Firing order: 1 – 2
Engine oil (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 10w40 API SE/SF or higher
Engine oil (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 10w40 API SG or higher

Note: You can use any grade oil in the GPZ500S engine (mineral, semi synthetic or full synthetic). Although fully synthetic is the best and will offer the best protection for your engine, we normally recommend a semi synth as it’s a good balance between engine protection and price. More info…

Engine oil capacity (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 3.0 litres
Engine oil capacity (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 3.4 litres
Engine oil drain bolt location: Bottom/underneath of the engine
Oil filter type: Canister type
Oil filter (GPZ500 A1 to A4 – Up to Dec 1990): Hiflo HF202 / Filtrex OIF003
Oil filter (GPZ500 A5, Jan 1991 onwards): Hiflo HF303 / Filtrex OIF006
Oil filter torque: 10nm
Cooling system: Liquid cooled
Cooling system capacity: 1.8 litres
Clutch: Wet (oil immersed) multiplate clutch
Clutch operation: Cable
Clutch lever free play: 10 to 20mm
Gearbox: 6 Speed manual (1st gear down, 2nd to 6th gears up, neutral between 1st and 2nd gears)
BHP: 49 bhp
Torque: 34 ft/lb
Top speed (claimed): 125 mph
0 to 60mph time (claimed): 3.76 seconds
Quater mile time (claimed): 12.7 seconds

Note: Top speed, 0-60 time, 1/4 mile time etc are all very APPROX!! as it’s not unusual for these figures to be slightly inflated by the manufacturer to help sell more bikes! 😀

Piston ring to cylinder bore clearance: New: 0.043mm / Max 0.070mm
Valve clearance (inlet): 0.13mm to 0.18mm (when cold)
Valve clearance (exhaust): 0.18mm to 0.23mm (when cold)
Idle speed (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 1,150 to 1250rpm
Idle speed (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 1,200rpm (+/- 50)
EX500 Starter

Starter motor from a 1998 ‘D5’ model

Final drive stuff…..

Final drive: Chain
Front sprocket: 16 teeth
Rear sprocket: 42 teeth
Chain pitch/length: 520 pitch / 104 links
Chain free play (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 35 to 45mm
Chain free play (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 35 to 40mm
Chain stretch limit: 323mm over 20 links
GPZ500S A oil filter
Hiflo HF202 oil filter – GPZ500S A1 to A4
GPZ500S D oil filter
Hiflo HF303 oil filter – GPZ500S A5 model onwards…
EX500 carbs

GPZ500S inline twin carbs

Carb, fuel and oil stuff…..

Fuel system: Carburetor
MPG (average): 45 miles per gallon (very approx)
Fuel tank range (approx): 175 – 200 miles

There are variations in MPG and tank range between users, mainly due to different riding styles and areas (e.g. city riding vs open road, weekend blast vs touring etc)

Fuel tank capacity: 18 litres
Fuel type: Unleaded petrol (95 octane grade – aka standard petrol from your local garage)
Carb make: Keihin (2x)
Carb type: CVK 34 (34mm flat-slide carbs)
Pilot screw opening (GPZ500 A – Up to 1993): 2 turns
Pilot screw opening (GPZ500 A – 1993 to Jan 1994): 1.75 turns
Pilot screw opening (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 2.25 turns
Engine oil (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 10w40 API SE/SF or higher
Engine oil (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 10w40 API SG or higher

Note: You can use any grade oil in the GPZ500S engine (mineral, semi synthetic or full synthetic). Although fully synthetic is the best and will offer the best protection for your engine, we normally recommend a semi synth as it’s a good balance between engine protection and price. More info…

Engine oil capacity (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 3.0 litres
Engine oil capacity (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 3.4 litres
Engine oil drain bolt location: Bottom/underneath of the engine
Oil filter type: Canister type
Oil filter (GPZ500 A1 to A4 – Up to Dec 1990): Hiflo HF202 / Filtrex OIF003
Oil filter (GPZ500 A5, Jan 1991 onwards): Hiflo HF303 / Filtrex OIF006
Oil filter torque: 10nm
GPZ500S exhaust

GPZ500S Aftermarket exhaust downpipes

GPZ500 exhaust

GPZ500S exhaust end can (there are 2, 1 each side, on the GPZ500)

EX500 CDI

GPZ500S CDI/ignitor unit

Electric stuff…..

Ignition type: Electronic CDI
Starter: Electric start
Electrical system voltage: 12 volts
Battery voltage (fully charged): 13 to 13.2 volts
Battery will need charging if below: 12.4 volts
Regulated voltage (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 14.5 volts (@ 4000 rpm)
Regulated voltage (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 15 volts (@ 4000 rpm)
Spark plug (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): NGK DR8ES (x2)
Spark plug (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): NGK DR9EA (x2)
Spark plug gap: 0.6 to 0.7mm
Spark plug torque: 14nm
Spark plug ignition: 2 x coil
Battery: CB14L-A2 / YB14L-A2 / GB14L-A2

Notes:

  • The YB14L-A2 battery is a 12 volt, 14 amp/hour battery and is length: 134mm width: 89mm height: 166mm in size (more info…).
  • The 1st letter(s) of the battery reference code are a manufacturers reference mark and may vary between different battery makes (different battery manufacturers use different 1st letters), so CB14L-A2, YB14L-A2 and DB14L-A2 are all the same battery just from different manufacturers (more info…).
  • Also…… Avoid buying the cheapest of the cheap type batteries online as they have a horrendous failure rate (and they can be a bug!er to post back when it fails.
GPZ500S battery
1987 to 2004 Kawasaki GPZ500S battery (YB14L-A2).
EX500 reg/rec

GPZ500S regulator/rectifier (also known as a reg/rec).

The reg/rec regulates the power the bike generates (and stops the voltage going too high) as well as the direction the electricity travels in.
They can generate alot of heat hence the cooling fins on this one.

EX500 coil

GPZ500S (EX500) spark plug coil, HT lead and plug cap

GPZ500S front caliper

GPZ500S front brake caliper (note one larger and one smaller brake piston)

Shocks, brakes and wheel specs…..

Front wheel type: 3 spoke cast wheel
Front tyre size (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 100/90-16
Front tyre pressure (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): Solo: 28psi (2 bar) / With pillon: 32psi (2.2 bar)
Front tyre size (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 110/70-17
Front tyre pressure (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 32psi (2.2 bar)
Front wheel spindle torque: 88nm
Front wheel spindle clamp bolt torque: 20nm
Rear wheel type: 3 spoke cast wheel
Rear tyre size (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 120/90-16
Rear tyre pressure (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): Solo: 32psi (2.2 bar) / With pillion: 36psi (2.5 bar)
Rear tyre size (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 130/70-17
Rear tyre pressure (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 36psi (2.5 bar)
Rear wheel spindle torque: 110nm

Note: The earlier ‘A’ model GPZ500S (up till Jan 1994) had a drum brake on the back wheel so used different brake pads to the later GPZ500S D models (Feb 1994 onwards) which had a rear disc brake.

Front brake: Single hydraulic disc brake with 2 piston caliper
Front brake disc: 280mm single disc. Part no: EBC MD4016 (1x)
Front brake pad: EBC FA129 (1x)
Rear brake (1987 to Jan 1994 – GPZ500S A1 to A6, drum rear brake models): Drum brake
Rear drum brake pad: EBC K706
Rear brake (Feb 1994, GPZ500S D1 onwards – disc rear brake models): Single hydraulic disc brake with single piston caliper
Rear brake disc: Single 230mm disc. Part no: EBC MD4051 (1x)
Rear brake pad: EBC FA067/3 (1x)
Brake fluid (front and rear): DOT 4 brake fluid
Front suspension: Telescopic forks
Front fork stanchion diameter (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 36mm
Front fork stanchion diameter (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 37mm
Recommended fork oil (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 15w fork oil
Fork oil volume (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 287 cm3 (per fork)
Recommended fork oil (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 10w fork oil
Fork oil volume (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 300 cm3 (per fork)
Rear Suspension: Monoshock rear suspension
GPZ500S rear shock

GPZ500S aftermarket rear shock absorber

EX500 rear caliper

GPZ500S rear brake caliper

Weights, measures ‘n stuff…..

Overall length (GPZ500S A1): 2050mm
Overall length (GPZ500S A2 to A6): 2110mm
Overall length (GPZ500S D/E): 2095mm
Overall width (GPZ500S A1 to A6): 675mm
Overall width (GPZ500S D/E): 700mm
Overall height (GPZ500S A1 to A6): 1165mm
Overall height (GPZ500S D/E): 1160mm
Wheelbase (GPZ500S A1 to A6): 1,440mm
Wheelbase (GPZ500S D/E): 1,435mm
Seat height (GPZ500S A1 to A6): 770mm
Seat height (GPZ500S D/E): 775mm
Ground clearance: 120mm
Dry weight (GPZ500S A – no oils, fluids etc): 169kg
Kerb weight (GPZ500S A – with oils, fluids etc): 171kg
Dry weight (GPZ500S D/E – with oils, fluids etc): 176.5kg
GPZ500 seat lock

GPZ500S seat lock location (left side, just below the seat)

EX500 rear light

GPZ500S rear light

Useful torque settings…..

Cam cover: 10nm
Cylinder head (stage 1): 51nm
Cylinder head (stage 2 – GPZ500S D/E models): 10nm
Spark plugs: 14nm
Front wheel spindle (GPZ500S D/E models): 88nm
Front wheel spindle clamp (GPZ500S D/E models): 20nm
Rear wheel spindle (GPZ500S D/E models): 110nm
Magneto / flywheel (GPZ500S A1 to A6): 69nm
Magneto / flywheel (GPZ500S D/E): 11nm
Cam cover: 10nm
Camshaft sprocket: 15nm
Clutch hub: 130nm
Oil filter: 10nm
GPZ500S grabrail

GPZ500S Pillion grab rail

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Service stuff…..

Servicing your bike? You’ll need a GPZ500S workshop manual…
Engine oil
Engine oil check: 3,000km (1,864 miles)
Engine oil change frequency: Every 10,000km (approx 6,214 miles) or 12 months
Engine oil (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 10w40 API SE/SF or higher
Engine oil (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 10w40 API SG or higher

Note: You can use any grade oil in the GPZ500S engine (mineral, semi synthetic or full synthetic). Although fully synthetic is the best and will offer the best protection for your engine, we normally recommend a semi synth as it’s a good balance between engine protection and price. More info…

Engine oil capacity (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 3.0 litres
Engine oil capacity (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 3.4 litres
Engine oil drain bolt location: Bottom/underneath of the engine
Oil filter (GPZ500 A1 to A4 – Up to Dec 1990): Hiflo HF202 / Filtrex OIF003
Oil filter (GPZ500 A5, Jan 1991 onwards): Hiflo HF303 / Filtrex OIF006
Oil filter torque: 10nm
Chain drive
Final drive chain frequency: Now repeat after me… ‘I MUST LUBE MY CHAIN LITTLE AND OFTEN!!’
Chain and sprocket size: 104 link / 520 Pitch chain
16 Tooth front sprocket
42 Tooth rear sprocket
Hydraulic brake system (front and rear)
Brake fluid change frequency: Change every 24 months or 20,000km (approx 12,427 miles)
Brake fluid: DOT 4 brake fluid
Fork oil
Front fork oil change: 30,000km (approx 18,641 miles) or 36 months
Recommended fork oil (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 15w fork oil
Fork oil volume (GPZ500 A – Up to Jan 1994): 287 cm3 (per fork)
Recommended fork oil (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 10w fork oil
Fork oil volume (GPZ500 D/E – Feb 1994 onwards): 300 cm3 (per fork)
Cooling system
Change every: 30,000km (approx 18,641 miles) or 24 months
Cooling system: Liquid cooled
Cooling system capacity: 1.8 litres
EX500 speedometer

GPZ500S clocks showing main light beam light, neutral gear light, speedo, rev counter and temp gauge

GPZ500S tool kit

Genuine tool kit from a 1998 GPZ500S D5

Frame number location…..

The frame number is usually stamped onto the right side of the headstock (the front part of the frame just below the handle bars).

EX500 fuse layout

GPZ500S fuse box diagram showing the positions of different fuses in the fuse box

Useless stuff…..

Surprisingly sporty middle weight bike which has withstood the test of time. Although the bike was called the ‘GPZ500S’ in Europe, it was originally called the ‘EX500’ in other areas (like the US). The bike name was changed in 1994 from EX500 to Ninja 500 and then to the Ninja 500R in 1998.

The bikes high revving and sporty nature meant it was used in the ‘production twins’ racing class in the US as well as several racing series.
Because the bike was quite forgiving if you made a mistake whilst riding, it proved popular with new racers getting into bike racing and new ‘big bike’ road going owners.
Kawasaki designed the bike to be reasonably cheap and easy to maintain which meant it was a popular bike with commuters and experienced riders looking to bike on a budget.

The GPZ500S was discontinued in the UK in 2004, probably partly due to the engine not meeting the new Euro 2 emissions regulations.

GPZ500 radiator

GPZ500S radiator

Buying advice…..

Firstly, if your thinking of buying one always HPI check it (there’s still loads about so no point risking getting stuck with a lemon!).

These are good, reliable and are ideal for both experienced riders on a budget and riders looking for their 1st ‘big bike’.
Although servicing and running costs are fairly cheap and the bike is fairly bullet proof you do tend to get what you pay for, obviously a bike that’s had frequent oil changes and has a good service history is likely to be better.

As the bike had a fairing, it wasn’t very popular with rider training schools (unlike other twins like the CB500), but it was a reasonably popular courier bike and was used in a few racing series which means there are likely to be a few dog’s out there.

Exhaust downpipes and headers do rot though (mild steel!), so in the unlikely event of the bike having the original headers, best to budget for replacing them. (however due to them being a twin with a simple exhaust design, end can’s and downpipes are readily available and not stupidly overpriced.

The only other thing to consider when buying one is the age. The youngest of these beasties will be over 14 years old now, so if your buying one give it a good check over, especially rear shocks, fork stanchion condition (helps if the forks have had fork gaitors fitted), radiator (damage, leaks look for white water trails from the rad of pipework), handle bar switches, ignition, battery etc.
Obviously, it’s worth paying a bit more for a lower mileage bike with a small rainforest of service paperwork then one of the ‘barn find’ type bikes that seem to be cropping up regularly.

Happy biking 🙂

GPZ500S belly pan

GPZ500S belly pan in candy red

Sources / Thanks to / Useful GPZ500 / EX500 sites:

GPZ500S article on MCN
Article written by an EX500 owner
www.ex-500.com/ Loads of helpful owners and info

If you’ve got any questions, comments or suggestions please feel free to leave them below 🙂

Disclaimer: The information on this page is correct to the best of our knowledge. But the info should NOT be taken as 100% accurate as we can, occasionally make mistakes!


Comments

18 responses to “Kawasaki GPZ500S Specs and Information (1987 to 2004 – aka Kawasaki EX500)”

  1. Nice write up about the often overlooked 500s, thanks. Good to see you got the HP figure right – I always thought they were more at the 50 HP output rather than the 60 as specified by the manufacturers. Very reliable bikes, engines are rock solid and quick! Had mine for years +… it’s a handy wee bike for me.

  2. James Avatar

    Thanks, really useful information. My GPZ500s E9 2002y runs fantastic, nice and simple bike with some power, great runner.

    1. colin harding Avatar
      colin harding

      can any body help I have attempted to put a engine out of a 1999 d6 modle into my ex 500s 2002 e9 frame and have issues lining up the mountain bolts and brackets
      can anybody tell me if it should fit and I am not doing somthink correct

      thanks colin

  3. Jonathan Hough Avatar
    Jonathan Hough

    Could you tell me torque for camshaft caps has in book Haynes I snapped the first bolt so did not do any more now will have to get another cylinder head they stated 78 pound feet thanks jonathan

  4. I was delighted to see this review of the GPZ500s. I have got back on a bike after a few years and this one stop shop for the GPZ500s has saved me a bucket load of time trying to find accurate specs. Well done and thanks again.

  5. Just got my 1990 GPZ , has been looked after reasonably well , runs perfect except for I tried to start it last night , this is on a brand new battery and there was little or no power so it failed to start , could this be a rectifier problem ? Also I’ve noticed cracks in the front tyre wall and tread and upon inspection it’s a 2009 tyre ! Can I take issue with the dealer to replace this doc as I’ve only had bike a week, am I right in thinking I’ve got 30 days to bring these issues to his attention and he is liable to fix them ?

    1. Check the battery terminals are tight and can’t be moved by hand (this is a common fault). It there ok you’ll need a voltmeter to check the battery charge (it needs to be over 12.5 volts to start the bike).

      Cracks aren’t always an issue as it depends on the size….. They are usually a sign of an older tyre (often on bikes/cars that are stored outside).

      Most vehicle spraying places will be able to match the paint. The original paint codes may not be much use as colours fade over time (due to sunlight etc) so the original paint may not match the paint on your bike now?

      You’ll have to go to the dealer if you’ve got questions about warranties as I can’t say what they would do?

  6. Also , sorry forgot to ask where can I get paint specification/match as I want to get wheels repainted? Thankyou

  7. Much appreciated, the battery is new and terminals tight , the guy who sold it to me also suggested a voltmeter am going to see him this week and sort the tyre out, it’s too old 2009 for a front tyre in my opinion, the recommended life is 5/6 years so am going to argue it out that it’s replaced at his cost , he may not like it but trust me the tyre isn’t good , thanks for your advice I like this site .

  8. I recently bought a pretty decent 1990 GPZ 500 , it runs as good as the day it left the factory, the thing is some clown painted the frame with a paint brush ( not good ), now I’ve sourced a 1989 frame part of a discontinued restoration project. It’s been grit blasted and spray painted with two coats of hard wearing black gloss , new s/steel bolts all round and head race all new £ 175.00 . Question is will it fit my bike and is it worth it ? I’ve also been offered a new pair of wheels also blasted and sprayed properly £ 350 again what you think . I’ve got a really nice bike and I want it as near mint as I can get it . Any advice welcome…Brendan

    1. Yes, they were the same so the frame should fit your bike (but please double check to make sure).

      Question is will it fit my bike and is it worth it ?

      Totally up to you, the parts are unlikely to ad alot of value to the bike, but if you want it to look good for yourself and can afford the parts, go for it?

      1. Much obliged, thanks for your advice, it’s great having found white dog bikes , so informative and plenty to read upon, keep up the good work …Brendan

    2. Had the same problem, the previous owner painted over rust chips etc on the frame, paint brush marks like a 5 year old had done it. I rubbed it all back, sprayed it with rattle can Halfords metallic black – looks like new. These bikes do suffer one well known problem – rectifier! Change it every 20,000 miles, its a 5 minute job and the cost of the part isn’t too bad. Otherwise these bikes are rock solid, dependable, fast as fook for a 500 and look the business. Had mine for 8 years now, summer AND winter riding. Just keep changing the oil and filter every 3,000 miles and leave the rest. Only other comment is consider a slightly upgraded battery for cold winter starts, I think they need this.

      1. brendan Avatar

        Thanks for your comments, I have since had a new rectifier and battery fitted since my posting and have hadno problems. I’ve ridden the bike all through winter on some damn cold days and it’s been brilliant, I couldn’t ever part with it as even if I just pop to the local shop I always come back with a smile on my face . And yes they are quick, but so easy to handle and so forgiving. Thanks for the tips I will take it all on board

  9. Mark Murray Avatar
    Mark Murray

    Hey guys fixing up an 87 goz500s wondering what is the max width tyre U can fit to the rear. Cheers Mark

  10. Anyone have any idea where I can get some replacement exhaust collets?? I have the Nexus 2into1 which uses these collets at the eaxhaust port. The collets act as a kind of spacer between the port and the exhaust flanges. Anyway, as you know Nexus went out of business and obtaining parts for their zorts is impossible. The zorst on mine is okay, no rot, but when I changed to exhaust gaskets recently, the collets were rotted through! basically the bike is off the road at the moment and a new zorst is too expensive…..

  11. Brendan Tro Avatar
    Brendan Tro

    Hello fellow GPZ owners, I have a GPZ500 1990 and the right hand fork seal has blown, how big a job is it to replace and is it best putting new bushes in at same time ? What’s the procedure and as a novice mechanic is it reasonable to be able to do the job ? Much obliged Brendan

  12. Brian knight Avatar
    Brian knight

    Thanks. Excellent article. I recently bought an R reg. Very decent condition. 24k. Under a grand. Hadn’t been on a bike in 25 years so it was a leap of faith. Not been out much. Winter. But it runs and rides as good as anything I remember riding. Changed the oil. That’s it. Looking forward to spring. Cramlington Northumberland

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